Heavy haute couture: a collection of the world’s most expensive armor

Denys Dormenok

One of the largest departments in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York is dedicated to weapons and armor. We have already shown you the most beautiful and unusual swords in this collection. Now it's time for armor.

Beautiful armor is a product of the Late Middle Ages and the Early Modern period. The most beautiful and expensive suits belonged to monarchs and the richest magnates of Europe, so they were unlikely to ever participate in a real battle. But they are well preserved, unlike the old chainmail and split helmets of real warriors.

Gradually, ceremonial armor became less and less comfortable, but more intricate. No one planned to fight in it, because unlike the 12th-century king Richard the Lionheart, a rare monarch of the 16th century was eager to fight with an axe in his hands. Needless to say, such armor cost a fortune. While the English king Henry VIII ordered simple infantry armor for his soldiers in Florence for 16 shillings 16 shillings per set, the monarch himself had his armor forged by the best blacksmiths in Germany and Flanders in a specially equipped workshop in Greenwich. This is hardly blacksmithing, but a job for a couturier.

This armor, made in 1527 and weighing 65 lb, is the earliest dated example from the Greenwich workshops, established by Henry VIII in 1514 to produce armor for himself and his court. They are also the earliest surviving Greenwich armor to include interchangeable parts that reinforce the main armor, so they could be used in both tournaments and battles. They also have the richest decoration of all Greenwich armor. The authorship of the ornament is attributed to the German artist Hans Holbein the Younger, who worked at the English court from 1526 to 1528. It is believed that this armor was made personally for Henry VIII Tudor, the King of England. Materials: steel, gold, leather, copper alloys. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Breastplate. A piece of armor allegedly belonging to King Henry VIII of England, 1527. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Abdominal plate. A piece of armor allegedly belonging to King Henry VIII of England, 1527. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Engravement of an elephant on the breastplate. A piece of armor allegedly belonging to King Henry VIII of England, 1527. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of George Clifford, Third Earl of Cumberland, circa 1585, Greenwich, England. The Cumberland armor, the best-preserved set of the Greenwich workshops, represents the culmination of the technical and artistic excellence of this school. The armor was made under the direction of the master Jacob Halder for tournaments and battles. It consists of a body armor (weighing almost 60 lb) with various interchangeable parts to reinforce the main armor, and horse armor including a headpiece (to protect the horse's head) and protective plates. George Clifford, a favorite of Queen Elizabeth I, was appointed Queen's Champion in 1590. The decoration of his armor includes a Tudor rose, a heraldic fleur-de-lis, and Elizabeth's monogram with two interlocking E letters. Materials: steel, gold, leather, textile. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of George Clifford (breastplate detail), Third Earl of Cumberland, circa 1585, Greenwich, England. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of George Clifford (detail), Third Earl of Cumberland, circa 1585, Greenwich, England. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of Henry II, King of France, circa 1550. This is one of the most exquisite and well-preserved examples of all French parade armor. The surface is elegantly decorated with volutes in the shape of a carved pattern of leaves with images of ancient figures and fairy-tale monsters, which is typical of the ornamental traditions of the late Renaissance and Mannerism. Twenty original drawings were preserved on this armor, made by the prominent Parisian artists of the mid-16th century, Jean Cousin the Elder, Etienne Delaunne, and Baptiste Pellerin. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of Henry II, King of France, circa 1550. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of Henry II, King of France, circa 1550 (back view). Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of Henry II, King of France, circa 1550. Helmet. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of Henry II, King of France, circa 1550. Breastplate. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of Henry II, King of France, circa 1550. Breastplate (detail). Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of Henry II, King of France, circa 1550. Right arm. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of Henry II, King of France, circa 1550. Gauntlets. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of Henry II, King of France, circa 1550. Greaves and sabatons. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand I, 1549, made by the famous Nuremberg-based master armorer Kunz Lochner. The armor is decorated with engravings on religious themes: Virgin Mary with Baby Jesus on the breastplate, and St. Peter with the keys and the Apostle Paul with a sword on the back of the cuirass. The burgonet helmet is not a part of this set. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand I, 1549 (back view). Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand I, 1549. A cuirass depicting Virgin Mary with Baby Jesus in her arms. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA
Armor of the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand I, 1549. Back of the cuirass, depicting St. Peter with the keys and the Apostle Paul with a sword. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA